Checklists for Life

6

Flowers and Plants: Checklists for Brown Thumbs

When Kermit, that Muppet philosopher, observes, “It isn’t easy being green,” he could be talking plants as easily as frogs. Many of us struggle to keep our greenery thriving, but often find we’re doing it serious damage instead. These lists will get you started on a beautiful garden, indoors or out.

 Hardy Houseplants

Placing a few green plants around your home or office can brighten any room dramatically. But it only takes one or two droopy or brown plants to quickly achieve the opposite effect. If this is a familiar scenario, take heart. The key to consistently flourishing flora lies in selecting plants that can survive the conditions you’re able to provide. This may mean choosing plants that prefer low light, or sticking with plants that don’t insist on regular watering, if you’re forgetful. Here are eight hardy plants and a few suggestions about supplying their modest needs.

1.	Aloe (Aloe barbadensis). Also known as the medicine plant because aloe helps soothe and heal burns, this graceful, long-armed succulent is a good choice for the kitchen. Wise cooks rub its sticky (and stinky) juice on burns. Aloe is about as low-maintenance as they come, but does need good light. Since it’s a member of the cactus family, you can let it go without water until it’s positively parched, then water sparingly.
2.	Cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior). This plant’s name alone should gladden the heart of even the most timid gardener. The cast iron plant has even been praised in song; “The Biggest Aspidistra in the World” is a testament to its wild popularity in the Victorian era and its habit of steady growth under all conditions. It has oblong, dark-green leaves that are long and pointed at the ends. The leaves arc outward from spears rising directly from the soil. It can serve as a demure table plant, or can be encouraged (with light, fertilizer, and ever-larger pots) to grow into a gargantuan specimen worthy of its song.
3.	Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema ‘silver queen’). This easygoing plant will tolerate downright dim light, but can also thrive in direct sun. Its silvery green leaves look a bit like long pointed tongues and sprout from short stems, giving the medium-sized floor plant a bushy or shrublike appearance. Keep it out of drafts and water when the soil surface is dry, and the Chinese evergreen will brighten your dark corners for many years.
4.	Ficus (Ficus benjamina). Sometimes called the weeping fig, this popular indoor plant is a staple of offices and living rooms. The graceful ficus has an undeserved reputation as a temperamental plant because sometimes it will “mysteriously” drop every leaf from its pale wood branches. There isn’t a mystery, really. The tree has been keeping a stiff upper lip under poor conditions for months or even years, and has finally used up its reserves. The ficus is the most “high maintenance” plant on this list, but its needs are simple: Give it good light, water moderately when it’s dry, and don’t move it unless absolutely necessary. Pop one of those fertilizer stakes into the soil and replace when necessary. With a little care, Ficus benjamina will grow slowly but steadily for years.
5.	Golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum). If you are a forgetful waterer, this creamy yellow- and green-leafed plant is for you. Pothos likes to be drenched periodically and to dry out completely in between. It thrives in bright light (no direct sun), but can exist in shaded areas. With abundant light, pothos will grow quickly, but it tolerates cramped roots, so you needn’t repot it constantly. You can grow it large and use as a floor plant to fill in a lonely corner, or display it on a table, or in a hanging basket. Pinch new growth every now and then to encourage fullness. If it starts to look leggy or unhappy, just cut it way back and your pothos will become full and healthy all over again.
6.	Mother-in-law’s tongue (Sansevieria trifasciata). This virtually indestructible plant got its popular name because of its long, sharp leaves. (You can tell your mother-in-law it is a snake plant, another common nickname.) Along with its cactus cousins, the snake plant prefers to stay fairly dry and likes abundant light. But it has been known to thrive in dim rooms and sometimes goes for as long as six weeks without water. Its deep-green leaves extend gracefully upward and it can grow from several inches to several feet high.
7.	Split-leaf philodendron (Philodendron bipennifolium). The split-leaf looks nothing like its larger cousin, the tree philodendron. But the two have a few important qualities in common: a general toughness and tolerance for low light and infrequent watering. Its leaves start out tender and pale green but turn deep green and leathery, splitting into sections, as it grows. Water when the soil surface is dry. If it begins to look unhealthy, cut it back to the soil and give the roots a good soaking; the plant will reward your minimal efforts by starting all over again.
8.	Tree philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Its large leaves are deeply cut in an almost frond- or fingerlike pattern and, as its name suggests, it makes a good floor plant. In fact, tree philodendrons are ideal for low-light areas where you want to fill in a bare spot and will grow very large if you keep repotting to larger containers. This plant will thrive under the absent-minded gardener, since it likes to be drenched and to dry out between binges.

 First Aid for Dying Plants

The secret to keeping plants alive is to recognize what’s killing them and fix it fast. This checklist describes the most common houseplant killers, helps you recognize symptoms, and explains how to apply a remedy before it’s too late.

1.	Overwatering. This is the single most common cause of death for houseplants and generally happens for one of two reasons. Most often, we’re overly affectionate, giving plants too much of what they need. Sometimes, we’re overly efficient, regularly, but lethally, giving every plant the same amount of water on the same schedule.
	Symptoms. The earliest symptom of overwatering may be as obvious as puddles in the plant saucer. One of the most reliable—but less easy to recognize—signs that you’ve been killing your plant with kindness is a generalized yellowing of the leaves. Sometimes the leaf tips turn black and the yellow leaves fall. As the damage progresses, your plant may sprout brown to black fungal spots on the yellow leaves. If you’ve turned a blind eye to all of this, the plant will eventually collapse and die because its entire root system has rotted away. A foul odor in the plant mix is another sign that the roots are rotting.
	Cures. If you’ve overwatered your plant on a single occasion, just pour off any standing water, allow the soil to dry out again, and the plant will be fine. But if you notice advanced symptoms, you’ll need to give it some help drying out. Gently inspect the soil and roots; if the soil is especially mushy and the plant has a reasonably well-established root system, lift it out and put the root ball directly on a stack of newspapers, which will draw out the moisture. If the plant is young, or not that wet, just put the pot (which, of course, has a drainage hole in the bottom!) on newspapers and change them as needed. After drying the plant, disinfect the pot to get rid of any accumulated fungus; otherwise the roots may rot again, however carefully you water.
	How much is too much? Most plants like to be watered when the soil is dry about a third of the way down the pot. You can buy a plant meter at the nursery, but any of the low-tech methods like twisting a pencil or your finger deep into the soil will also be a fairly reliable indicator of the moisture level. But check the instructions that come on the plant, or ask the expert at the store if the plant you’re buying has special watering requirements.
2.	Underwatering. This can happen if you’re away on vacation, distracted, or forgetful. But the most common cause of parched plants is watering them on a set timetable. “Do not put your plants on a watering schedule,” warns houseplant specialist Vivian Mitchell of Merrifield Garden Center in Merrifield, Virginia. “Water only as plants request watering,” she advises. Plants make their initial request for watering by drooping slightly.
	Symptoms. A thirsty plant wilts and perks again when watered. The leaves of a chronically dry plant (one that gets some water, but not enough) will turn brown along the leaf margins and out to the tips. This is a sign that the dehydrated soil has accumulated too much salt and the plant tissue has burned. Older leaves will turn yellow and drop from the bottom of the stalk as their nourishment is sucked away to feed new growth. Note the contrast with overwatered plants, which turn black only at tip of the leaf and have generalized, not localized, yellowing.
	Cures. Water the plant when it’s dry about one third down from the top. And check with an expert to make sure this is exactly what each plant requires. Some plants need to be kept moist all the time and some like to dry out thoroughly between watering.
3.	Overpotting. Just as you wouldn’t buy a pair of shoes three sizes too big and wait to grow into them, you shouldn’t put a small plant in an enormous container and expect it to grow into the pot. Your plant will be uncomfortable in its “big shoes”; it won’t thrive and may even die. Plants prefer containers that allow them to extend their roots throughout, pulling in moisture and nutrients from every corner. When you attempt to keep the soil moist in a big pot with tiny roots, there is greater danger of rot because the water displaces the soil’s oxygen, causing the root system to stagnate.
	Cures. Keep a new plant in the container it comes in unless you see roots growing right out the drainage holes. When you do repot, choose a container that is only one or two sizes larger than the old one.
4.	Wrong soil. The general rule is to use only professionally produced potting medium—never “dirt” from the garden or any other dense or heavy soil. When you purchase plants at a nursery or garden shop, they are planted in the right mixture. When you’re repotting, use only soil marked “houseplant potting medium” for the job, and use fresh soil; never recycle soil from another plant.
5.	Wrong light. You must know the requirements of your individual plants to get this one right. If the plant didn’t come with instructions, look in a plant book or call a nursery and ask.
	Symptoms. Flowering plants (African violets, cyclamen, poinsettias, cactus) usually need a high amount of light to bloom and won’t flower without it. Plants that tolerate only low light will burn and develop an all over yellow-to-brown look if left in direct sun or in a very bright room. Nonflowering houseplants that get too little light may lose color and drop leaves; or they may become leggy as the plant stretches toward the light.
	Cures. Those blue “plant-grow” light bulbs are fine to supplement inadequate daylight. But exclusive use of artificial incandescent bulbs will focus too much warmth on the plant. If you are really short of daylight, use a fluorescent bulb in combination with the plant bulbs. Don’t expose any plants to light for more than twelve hours at a time. If a plant shows symptoms of too much light, move it!

Easy-to-Grow Vegetables and Flowers

There are two tricks to gardening well, and both are simple. First, choose plants that will thrive in your climate zone and with your soil type, sunlight, and rainfall patterns. Second, stick with easygoing flowers and vegetables. Here are a half dozen of each that will grow well in most any garden.

 FLOWERS

1.	Marigolds. These golden frilled flowers are easy to grow from seed. They like hot, sunny weather and ask only that you pinch off the dead blooms to make room for new ones. They’ll also pitch in and help with your vegetable garden by keeping pests away (see below).
2.	Snapdragons. Tall, colorful, and graceful, snapdragons are beautiful and fun: squeeze their little “mouths” together and see the dragon snap. Plant them from seed or (for quicker blooms) plant seedlings. They like full sun and well-drained soil.
3.	Zinnias. Talk about cooperative—the more you pick these brightly colored flowers the more they grow! Like marigolds, they are easy to cultivate from seed and like full sun and well-drained soil.
4.	Impatiens. These small, pastel flowers will thrive in shady areas. A separate variety (New Guinea impatiens) has brightly colored blossoms and can be grown in full sun. Both kinds need plenty of water and wilt quickly on hot days. They do come back when watered, but don’t count on their surviving many of these “near-death” experiences.
5.	Sunflowers. These giant-headed flowers grow up to ten feet tall from little black seeds (the same ones we snack on). Tie the stem to a large, sturdy stake to keep the massive flower head from falling over as it shoots toward the sky.
6.	Pansies. Now here is an unfairly named plant. These jewel-toned, velvety flowers don’t live up to their wimpy name. They are among the hardiest flowers you can grow. They can bloom from late summer straight through fall and into winter, long after other flowers have succumbed to the cold. Plant pansies from seedlings and pinch off the dead blooms to encourage new growth. If the plant gets leggy, cut the foliage back and the feisty little pansy will bounce right back.

 VEGETABLES

1.	Zucchini. Zucchini grows so easily and so quickly that you may have a hard time keeping up with the harvest. Plant seeds following packet directions, planting each in a separate mound of earth. Allow at least a 5-foot circumference to accommodate the large and sprawling plant. Water, fertilize, and begin scouring your recipe books for new ways to cook zucchini!
2.	Tomatoes. They come in many varieties, but the two easiest and most familiar are Early Girl (which can be harvested early, as the name suggests) and beefsteak, the huge meaty tomatoes so perfect for slicing and sprinkling with salt and olive oil. Plant tomato seedlings in the early warmth of spring where they will get full sun. Water them slowly and deeply during hot weather and fertilize regularly. You will need to stake the plant if it begins to topple. Pick tomatoes when all the green has been replaced by deep red.
3.	Onions. Probably the easiest vegetable to cultivate, onions grow quickly when given sufficient water. You can plant them from “sets” (small bulbs) or put the whole onion in the ground. For variety—and a fun project—plant some sets or onions about 8 inches deep and the rest about 3 inches beneath the surface. The deeply planted onions will elongate to reach the surface and grow up to be scallions; the more shallow plants will become round yellow onions!
4.	Green beans. These mature quickly from seeds and produce abundant crops. Choose bush beans (there are several varieties) and seed a new batch every few weeks to keep up a steady harvest. Pick when the pods are about four inches long.
5.	Peppers. Buy these plants as seedlings and consider a mixture of hot and sweet plants. If you plant a little cilantro, you’ll have the ingredients for homemade salsa (tomatoes, onions, and peppers) right in your own garden.
6.	Lettuce. If you want to plant something for cool-weather gardening, lettuce is a very satisfying choice. Plant from seeds, keep watered, and you’ll be harvesting your salads within six weeks.

OUTSMARTING GARDEN PESTS

To make life a little harder for the insects who’d enjoy snacking on your vegetables, avoid planting all of the same crop together. Mix up the seeds and seedlings so the rows have a smattering of each vegetable. Putting tomato next to squash, which is right beside corn, will thwart insect pests who like to munch their way straight down a row of all one kind. “Insects are pretty picky eaters,” says Tom Christopher, coauthor of The Twenty Minute Gardener; “most of them have adapted to live on a certain plant—for example, tomato horn worms really only want to eat tomatoes.” This technique works even better if you add herbs and other aromatic plants like marigolds to the mix. The strong scents make it harder for pests to recognize their favorite foods.

 Basic Gardening Tools

When it comes to gardening tools, buy the best you can afford. A well-made tool will last longer, be kinder to plants, and make the job easier for you. Gardening experts advise checking the quality of the metalwork and paying attention to the way parts are joined together. The blade or metal head of the tool should be welded to a socket that fits up around the handle, not jammed directly into the handle where it will soon come loose. Avoid buying tools with painted wooden handles because the paint is there to disguise inferior wood (and it will also chip off on sweaty palms). Before you buy any tool, grab and use it as you would in the garden. Seize the trowel and twist your wrist as you might when scooping a planting hole, put your foot on the top of the spade as if you were digging, and so forth. This is the only way to find out if the tool is the right size for your height, your hand, and your strength.

1.	Pruner. For cutting back flowers and plants and pruning deadwood and twigs. Buy the best you can afford because cheap ones don’t cut cleanly and can damage branches, causing rot or disease over time.
2.	Trowel. For digging out weeds and planting flowers and bulbs. You may want two: narrow for weeding and planting bulbs, and broad for flowers and seedlings.
3.	Spade. A spade is one of the most important garden tools you’ll buy. This long-handled tool is used for planting trees and shrubs, making trenches along garden beds (for drainage), and many other digging and earth-turning jobs.
4.	Knife. A one-piece knife with a serrated blade and metal handle—a steak knife is perfect—may turn out to be your favorite gardening tool. It will dig weeds with pinpoint accuracy and plunge through the soil neatly in narrow spaces. (Don’t use a wooden-handled steak knife with a flexible blade because it won’t be strong enough.)
5.	Leaf rake. A bamboo rake is inexpensive and gentle on your grass and plants.
6.	Watering can. Good-quality cans will come with a brass tip, called a rose. A good rose allows for precise and delicate watering.
7.	Gloves. Some gardeners turn up their nose at gloves because they get between your hand and the soil. If you have sensitive skin, or value your fingernails, that’s precisely the reason you might want to wear them.
8.	Straw hat. It should go without saying (but it doesn’t) that you don’t want to be working in the garden for a couple of hours without protection from the heat and sun.
9.	Large plastic trash can. Buy a light one so you can drag it around easily as you move through the garden digging weeds, pruning, and cutting away annuals. Plastic bags can blow away, and reopening them every time you throw something away is an annoying waste of time.