Choosing the Right Hardware

You don't need the fastest computer available to use InDesign, but factors such as processor (CPU) speed, RAM, hard disks, removable media, connectivity, and input/output devices can make a difference. The following sections take you on a tour of what works best in a full spectrum of publishing situations.

The computer

Adobe provides system requirements for InDesign, but this is just the bare minimum you need to run the software. They're not concerned about whether you can run InDesign and, say, Photoshop at the same time or whether your font manager will run on the operating system it supports. But since you need to be concerned about your entire publishing system ‚ not just InDesign ‚ let me provide a realistic minimum system for Mac OS and Windows. Then I'll give you a wish list for the ideal publishing system.

The minimum system

For Adobe's official system requirements, see Appendix A, "Installing or Upgrading InDesign." But for best results, I recommend the following minimum publishing system:

• Mac OS: Any non-beige G3 or higher Macintosh computer running Mac OS X 10.2 or higher, with a minimum of 256MB of RAM and a 20GB hard drive. Note that InDesign CS will not run on Mac OS 8 or 9.

• Windows: An Intel Pentium III, AMD Athlon, or newer processor running at least at 400MHz, running Windows 2000 or Windows XP, with 256MB of RAM and a 20GB hard drive. Note that InDesign will not run on Windows 95, 98, Millennium (Me), NT 3, or NT 4.

The ideal system

In any kind of graphic-arts environment, you typically need to run at least Adobe InDesign, Photoshop, and Illustrator ‚ not to mention an e-mail program and a Web browser ‚ at the same time. Photoshop in particular runs faster and more reliably with plenty of RAM. Plus, images, EPS files, and the like eat up disk space fast. As a rule, buy as much RAM and the largest hard disk you can afford. If you're just getting started or have just come into some money, set yourself up right with the following system:

• Mac OS: A 400 MHz or faster Power Mac G4 running Mac OS X 10.2 with 512MB to 1GB of memory (online sources such as www.ramseeker.com have Mac memory available at very affordable prices), a 60GB or greater hard drive, and a CD-RW (read/write) or DVD R/W drive.

• Windows: A Pentium III, Pentium 4, or AMD Athlon computer running Windows 2000 or XP with 512MB to 1GB of RAM, a 60GB or greater hard drive, and a CD-RW or DVD R/W drive. Note that although Windows typically requires less operational overhead than Mac OS; the RAM requirement for applications is usually the same.

Storage capacity

Today, computers usually come with plenty of RAM (memory) and storage capacity (hard-drive space). But if you have an older computer, or you're taxing your current system, upgrading RAM and storage can speed up your work significantly. Here are my recommendations for storage:

• RAM: Adding RAM lets the computer work more efficiently , and you'll want 128MB as a bare minimum, which you can get by with if you work with just one program at a time. Better for publishers is 256MB to 1GB, and more than that if you're doing complex work on large files in Adobe Photoshop as well (512MB is typical for such users). Be sure to check the maximum amount of RAM your system can accommodate before making an upgrade purchase.

  Computer acronyms explained

  If you're not a techie, here are the acronyms explained:

  • MHz, or megahertz , is the speed of the chip that does all the calculation in a computer.

  • MB, or megabyte, is a unit of storage capacity equal to 1,024 kilobytes, or about 1 million characters . (A kilobyte is 1,024 bytes, and a byte is essentially one character.)

  • GB, or gigabyte, is a unit of storage capacity equal to 1,024MB, or about 1 billion characters.

  • bps, or bits per second, is the speed at which data travels over a wired or wireless connection. These speeds are typically shown as Kbps (1Kbps equals 1,024 bits per second) and Mbps (1Mbps equals 1,024Kbps). There are 8 bits in a byte, so to calculate transmission time, multiply the number of bytes of file size by 8 to get the number of seconds of transmission time. For example, a 2MB file transmitted at 1Mbps will take 16 seconds: 2048 ‚ 1024 ƒ ” 8 = 16.

   

• Hard disks: Programs and files eat through disk space, so these days, a 10GB to 20GB drive (which holds about 10 to 20 billion characters) is considered small. Look for 30GB to 100GB or higher. And remember that you can usually add hard drives to your Mac or PC. You don't have to replace your existing one in most cases. Be sure to check the largest capacity of hard drive that your system can fully utilize. Due to upper limitations of the internal ATA hard connection, many Mac and PC systems more than a few years old can only use hard drives of 120GB or less. Buying a drive larger than 120GB may just be a waste of money, because an older Mac or PC will only be able to use the first 128GB of the drive. External FireWire and USB hard drives are generally not subject to this 128GB limitation.

• CD-RW or DVD R/W: Using a read/write CD drive (also called a CD burner or DVD burner ) as part of your storage solutions is your best choice for long- term archiving. CDs and DVDs also work well for delivering large projects ‚ including documents, graphics, and fonts ‚ to service bureaus and printers. CD-RW drives are cheap ($100 to $300) depending on the speed, and the CD-R discs themselves are very inexpensive. (You can also use the more expensive CD-RW discs, which let you erase and modify the CD's contents, but for delivering, say, an issue of a magazine to a printer, there's no reason to use such a rewritable disc, because you're not expecting the CD back. CD-RWs are great, though, for storing templates that might be adapted over time and as a backup device.) Be aware that CD-RW media can only be rewritten a relatively few number of times, depending on the quality of the media. Each CD can hold 650MB of data and it's easy to store, permanent, and universal. DVD R/W drives cost more ‚ the drives and media cost about four times as much as CD-RW drives and media ‚ but they hold seven times as much per disc. Early competition between formats is winding down, as are the compatibility issues this competition introduced, but do note that older DVD, DVD-R, and DVD R/W drives may not be able to read all DVD R/W discs.

• Zip drives: If your computer didn't come with a Zip drive, don't worry. While previously the standard way to exchange files, the 100MB and 250MB Zip drives have fallen into disuse because CD and DVD drives and media offer much more storage capacity at cheaper prices for the media. The new 750MB drives may help change that, but very few service bureaus will have them, while almost any computer can read a CD and most can read a DVD.

• Tape drives: If you don't have a CD-RW drive and don't work on a network that automatically backs up files to a server, you can use a tape drive for backups . Prices range from $100 to $1,000 depending on the capacity, with the majority under $400. These drives back up your system on inexpensive tapes, saving your work in case your hard drive gets damaged. If you're making a living from your computer, don't put that living at risk. Macintosh users will find a much more limited selection of tape drives than Windows users, though the newer external USB and FireWire drives are increasingly available in Mac versions.

• Extra hard drives: An increasingly popular alternative to tape ‚ which can be slow and is subject to physical damage ‚ is second hard drives ‚ internal or external ‚ on which you make mirror copies of your data and from which you can easily start up in case of failure. A consistent backup method using a second hard disk, tape drive, CD-R, or DVD-R can mean the difference between tearing every last hair out or staying sane even under the tightest of deadlines. You'll appreciate the nearly incalculable value of a complete daily or weekly backup the first time you lose everything on a 100GB hard drive in your Mac or PC. I promise.

Connectivity

Another essential component in workgroup environments is a network. At the very least, you want peer-to-peer networks, in which your Macs and PCs are connected to one another so they can share files. Both the Mac OS and Windows have this capability built in.

The Mac/PC connection

The following list describes programs that Macs and PCs use to connect to each other and read each other's disks:

• Mac OS X includes both Apple and Windows file-sharing support, so you can connect a Mac OS X system out of the box to Windows PCs. It also lets Windows computers connect to it without additional software.

• Miramar Systems' PC MacLAN lets PCs join Mac-based networks, whether AppleTalk- or IP-based. It provides better control over what items are accessed and shared than Mac OS X does, and unlike Mac OS X, it allows PCs to use Mac-connected printers. It costs about $200 per person but only needs to be installed on PCs.

• DataViz's MacOpener and Media4's MacDrive let PCs read Mac disks (floppies, CDs, Zips, SyQuests, external hard drives, and so on). They cost about $50 per user . Access Systems's TransMac does the same for about $65.

• DataViz's MacLinkPlus lets Macs read PC disks and also offers file translation. Most people don't need file-translation capability because most programs now use the same file format on Mac and Windows, but if you tend to use older or specialty programs, MacLinkPlus is a necessity. It costs about $100 per person. Apple's Mac OS X supports PC disks natively as well, although with less control than MacLinkPlus allows.

The network connection

Ethernet has become the standard means of networking computers together. Ethernet is a kind of wiring that lots of different transmission protocols, like TCP/IP or AppleTalk, can run and it's pretty fast yet inexpensive. All Macs built since late 1998 have Ethernet connectors built in, and so do most PCs. For those that don't, the cost is $10 to $50 per computer for the needed card or adapter box.

Older Macs have both AppleTalk and Ethernet, so you need to tell the Mac which you want to use; you can switch back and forth. I recommend you stick with Ethernet, using AppleTalk only if you have a printer that is not Ethernet-compatible (such as an older color ink-jet printer). Similarly, on a PC, getting an Ethernet version of your printers is better than relying on the slow, single-user parallel port or USB connection. Of course, if you're a one-person design firm, that's not a big issue.

Finally, consider wireless networks in small offices. The 802.11g wireless standard supports wireless connections of up to 54 Mbps (more typically, 20 Mbps to 24 Mbps), as well as the previous 802.11b 11 Mbps technology, and costs about $100. 802.11a is a third, 54 Mbps wireless technology that has been slow to catch on, since it suffers from a smaller typical coverage area and is not compatible with the widely installed 802.11b devices, such as the Apple AirPort wireless networking products; 802.11a is not a suggested general-use wireless technology at this time.

At the center of a wireless network is a wireless access point, which contains a radio transmitter and can serve a half- dozen connected systems and printers in a typical 150- to 300- foot radius, depending on whether there are major obstructions and interference from other wireless devices such as cordless phones and microwave ovens. (No matter which kind of wireless networking you use, there is a significant gap between the advertised rate and the real rate that your data can be moved. The wireless network's bandwidth must accommodate the overhead of interference and its transmission protocol. 802.11b is commonly rated at 11 Mbps but rarely achieves a real-world data-transfer rate of more than 6 Mbps.) If your Mac or PC doesn't have 802.11b or 802.11g wireless networking built in, an internal PCI card or external USB box costs typically about $50 to $75. Just be sure to turn on encryption if you use wireless networks so no one can snoop into your network.

You should be aware that even using the built-in encryption methods will not keep determined snoops out of your wireless network. There are alternative methods for improving the security of a wireless network, but they typically require a corporate network be in place, so they are not really an option for small businesses and individual users. The surest way to secure a wireless network is to place the access point or wireless router so its transmission range does not extend beyond the walls, floor, and ceiling of the space that you can physically control access to. If someone can get physical access into your space, then the security of your wireless network is a fairly minor concern by comparison.

The Internet connection

Even if you're working just on print projects, you'll need to be on the Internet. You need to be able to send and receive files ‚ from e-mail to text files to entire InDesign documents and graphics ‚ download program updates, and use your computer as a fax. Basically, you should get the fastest Internet connection available to you. Unfortunately, the availability is often limited by the phone lines and other factors in your area.

If you can get a cable, ISDN, or DSL connection from your cable or phone company, that's ideal. Cable modem and DSL are quickly becoming the connections of choice based on cost, availability, and ease of use. They let you access and download data at 384 kilobits per second (Kbps) or higher. Most often, the provider will send you the equipment you need or tell you what to buy. Make sure you carefully research all the types of cable modem and DSL services available in your area. Price, speed, and flexibility vary a lot from company to company. The best service is one that is not shared ‚ where that 384 Kbps is always yours only. Some companies offer dedicated DSL service, while others offer shared DSL high-speed Internet; all cable-modem lines are shared with other users in your neighborhood. (Not only can this slow performance, it also means someone else on the connection could access your computers unless you have enabled the Mac OS X or Windows security software and, better, are using a hardware firewall.)

If you're stuck with a dial-up account ‚ because DSL or other services are not available where you live ‚ you need some type of modem. Most newer computers, such as iMacs or any PC, have an internal 56 Kbps modem, so all you do is plug a phone line into the computer. If you need an external modem, be sure to buy one that supports speeds of 56 Kbps.

Input and output devices

The following sections cover some of the things you'll need to consider in the input/output realm: printers, scanners , digital cameras , CD-ROM drives, multibutton mice, trackballs, and pen-based tablets.

Printers

Invest in a good printer. You'll want a black-and-white laser printer capable of 600 dots per inch (dpi) output or better. Older printers support 300-dpi output, which is acceptable but not as sharp when it comes to printing text and images. Get a printer with PostScript language built in, since you'll get better output, more functionality, and a more accurate preview of what you'll get on your imagesetter (these are PostScript-based). That pretty much means a Hewlett-Packard printer, because most other manufacturers don't provide PostScript options.

Fast network printers

If you work in an office and need only black-and-white or gray-scale output, you can buy one or two fast network printers (16 to 25 pages per minute [ppm] or faster) and share them. Such printers ‚ such as the Hewlett-Packard 2200dn, 4100, or 5100 series ‚ cost between $800 and $2,000 each. They typically have PostScript, the printing language standard for desktop publishing, already installed and can hold lots of paper, often in several sizes.

Personal laser printers

If you work alone and need only black-and-white or gray-scale output, you can consider an affordable laser printer such as the HP 1200 or 2200 series. Look for one that prints between 9 and 15 ppm. Consider getting a refurbished printer, especially if it has Ethernet built in (Ethernet is an expensive option for personal laser printers). A better choice for personal printing is one of the newer color ink- jets .

PostScript printers

If you're producing final output, as opposed to proofs, you'll want a PostScript-capable printer, because that's the language that all professional output devices, such as imagesetters , use. Printers aimed at Mac owners almost always have PostScript, while printers aimed at PC owners usually do not. Mac-oriented printers almost always work with PCs, so PC owners will find it easier to get PostScript by looking at Mac-oriented printers than by looking at PC-oriented printers. You can have Macs and PCs plugged into them and using them simultaneously .

Note ‚  

If you use Windows 2000 or XP, be sure to go to Adobe's Web site ( www.adobe.com ) and download its free PostScript printer driver rather than use the one that comes with Windows ‚ the Windows PostScript driver is less capable and can result in output errors. On a Mac, the Apple PostScript driver that comes with the Mac OS is fine, though Adobe also offers its own version.

Color ink-jet printers

For graphic-arts applications, the inexpensive color ink-jet printers, such as a Hewlett-Packard Photosmart, Epson Color Stylus, or Canon S series, are a great choice. These printers are essential if you're doing color work and want to get color proofs occasionally. And for low-volume color printing, they're a great deal and very convenient . Color ink-jets cost between $100 and $500. Although they're slower than most laser printers, they provide glorious color and gray-scale output.

While most of these do not support PostScript, you can purchase Strydent Software's PowerPrint PostScript rendering software for many models for about $100 (for serial and USB printers) or $250 (for network printers) ‚ just be sure it works with your ink-jet printer. Epson also sells PostScript software ($145 to $200, depending on the model) for many of its ink-jet printers.

Multifunction printers

Multifunction printers ‚ which include copy and scanner functions ‚ from Brother, Canon, Epson, and Hewlett-Packard can be great printers for simple proofing. They come in both color ink-jet and black-and-white laser models, but they almost never include PostScript support.

Color scanners

One device that has recently become very affordable is a color scanner. Epson, Umax Technologies, Agfa, and Canon are all excellent and are inexpensive ($150 to $500) yet have color quality that approaches that of a professional scanner costing several thousand dollars. (Other brands tend to rate unevenly in reviews, but because manufacturers' quality changes over time, be sure to check out reviews at places such as Macworld , PC World , PC Magazine, and Cnet to see who's got the best current models.) These scanners work with both Macs and PCs, feature USB connectivity, and at these low prices and great quality, are almost a requirement to own. They also can double as copy machines or fax machines. You scan in a paper document and then print it to your printer or fax it from your Internet connection.

Digital cameras

These are becoming popular, and their image quality is presentable, however, you'll need to spend $600 or more for the 4- to 5-megapixel versions. This resolution is adequate for print publishing if your final output is under 8 by 10 inches and you're doing super- high-quality printing. The less-expensive 3- to 4-megapixel cameras, which cost $200 to $600, are fine for images that are printed at no larger than 5 by 7 inches.

The biggest problem with using a digital camera for print publishing is that most of the cameras use JPEG image compression, so you're not necessarily dealing with optimum quality no matter how high the resolution of the camera is. The best solution is to experiment ‚ some image subjects work better than others. For Web publishing, however, digital cameras are fine, and using them is more convenient than having your 35mm film processed and scanned.

Mice, trackballs, and tablets

Also consider getting a multibutton mouse. The extra buttons can save you strain on your hands and arms by being used for common operations such as dragging and double-clicking. I advise both Mac and Windows users to get a three- or four-button mouse (or trackball , if that's your fancy); Kensington Microware and Logitech both offer good models for both platforms. A pen-based tablet makes sense if you're also doing illustration work, but consider that a secondary input device, not a primary one. However many buttons you get on your mouse, I strongly recommend the new optical mice, which don't require a mousepad, don't get gunk in their gears that can interfere with scrolling, and generally are easier to operate on most surfaces. You may find a mouse pad is necessary for use with an optical mouse if your desk or work surface is highly reflective or made of glass (optical mice need to "see" a slight variation in the texture of surface they're placed on).

Tip ‚  

If your optical mouse skips or jumps , try taping a piece of plain copier paper for use as a mouse pad.