Checklists for Life

4

Home
Maintenance

One of the toughest aspects of home maintenance—beyond the cost and hassle factor—is just remembering what to do when. Even simple and inexpensive (but vital) tasks may be neglected because no light goes on, nothing comes in the mail, and no one calls to remind us that we should, for example, drain and turn off outdoor water faucets in late fall or inspect and caulk windows in early spring. Now you have these checklists to help. All you have to do is remember to look at them!

Fall Maintenance Checklist

Squirrels do it, birds do it—and you should do it too: make your nest warm, safe, and snug before the chills of winter set in.

 OUTSIDE THE HOUSE

1.

Prune tree branches that touch the house.

2.

Clean rain gutters and install wire strainers (to save yourself the trouble next year).

3.

Clean and store outdoor furniture.

4.

Remove window screens.

5.

Put up storm windows.

6.

Check windows for needed putty, weather stripping, or caulking.

7.

Inspect roof for loose or missing shingles.

8.

Check chimney for cracks, damaged bricks, loose flashing.

9.

Drain outside faucets and hoses, put away hoses, and turn off faucets.

10.

Double-check drainage (during rainstorm) to ensure water flows away from house.

To check for drafts, try the “hair dryer and candle test.” One person blows a hair dryer at door and window crevices while a second watches the flame of a burning candle on the other side. You’ll need to install weather stripping or caulk the edges of doors and windows where the flame flickered (or blew out!).

 INSIDE THE HOUSE

1.

Fill and clean humidifier, test, and start.

2.

Have heating system checked by serviceperson.

3.

Check area around furnace and sweep away dust and flammable debris.

4.

Install clean air filter and purchase several ahead of time, if you have the disposable type.

5.

Check chimney for bird nests; hire chimney sweep if needed.

6.

Test fireplace damper. It should open and close smoothly.

 AND DON’T FORGET . . .

Beat the crowds by stocking up on these items before the first big storm is predicted.


Snow shovel

Salt or chemical ice melting crystals

Firewood

Interior and exterior doormats that can handle mud and slush

And . . . just to be safe, double-check the family cars for winter supplies (see chapter 18, “What to Carry in Your Car”).

Spring Maintenance Checklist

When those first crocuses appear above the soil and visions of barbecues and bathing suits begin to dance in your head, pull out this checklist. It will help you locate any winter damage that needs attention and guide you in preparing your home for the warmer season.

 OUTSIDE THE HOUSE

1.

Remove and store storm windows.

2.

Repair and install window screens.

3.

Recheck caulking around doors and windows.

4.

Inspect porch, steps, driveway, patio, and any other concrete surfaces for cracks.

5.

Inspect wood deck for:

 

• wood rot (especially underneath crawl spaces and anywhere wood touches the ground)

 

• loose or warped boards

 

• cracks in railing

 

• loose connections between railings or supports and main structure

 

• water protection (if a glass of water soaks into the wood immediately instead of beading on the surface, apply water sealer or wood preservative)

6.

Inspect walls and painted surfaces for cracks, peeling paint, and rot.

7.

Clean out rain gutters if needed.

8.

Check flashing around chimney, dormers, vents, and skylights.

9.

Look for loose or missing shingles on roof.

10.

Open up and air out basement when the weather is warm enough.

11.

Get barbecue out of storage and clean it

 INSIDE THE HOUSE

1.

Shut off humidifier, clean, drain.

2.

Inspect air conditioner, test and call for repair if necessary.

3.

Reverse baffles in heating/air conditioning system so cool air will flow to upper floors.

The Do-It-Yourselfer’s Toolkit

Think of your toolbox as the first aid kit for your home. You’ll keep your house “healthy” and save yourself both time and money if you’re prepared to tackle at least the smaller jobs on your own. Here’s advice from a Home Depot tool expert on what to buy and approximately how much to spend on each item.

 THE BASICS

1.

Hammer. Heft a few until you find one that feels comfortable in your hand and seems to have a good balance when you raise it to swing. If you choose a wooden-handled hammer, look for a cast, rather than forged, steel claw. A 16-ounce weight claw hammer will probably be most comfortable for men; women often prefer a 12-ounce size. Expect to pay between $9 and $20.

2.

Pliers. Pliers come in many varieties, and deciding which you need for your toolkit can be confusing. Start by getting the following four pairs, and you’ll be armed for most challenges that call for pliers:

 

• Standard pliers, sometimes known as pump pliers and sometimes referred to by a common brand name, Channel-Lock. Use these for plumbing work, tightening bolts, etc. (For larger plumbing jobs, see adjustable wrenches below.)

 

• Needle-nose pliers. They’re commonly used to hold wire in electrical work, so to be extra safe, buy a pair with an insulated handle (but never use them, or any other tool, on live wires).

 

• Heavy duty cutters. These can cut bolts and screws as well as thicker sheets of metal.

 

• Wire cutters. These will cut wire and thinner pieces of metal.


You can pick up a good pair of pliers for around $5 apiece—less if you buy a packaged set. Choose a tool that feels comfortable in your hand, but generally a pair about 8 inches long will work well for assorted tasks.

3.

Adjustable wrench. These wrenches, commonly referred to by the brand name, Crescent wrench, open and close to the size of the item you’re turning. They’ll open up very wide to accommodate larger pipes. A good-quality wrench that’s easy to grip should go for $15 to $20.

4.

Screwdrivers. You’ll want a variety of these, including one or two cheap ones for dirty jobs like opening paint cans. The easiest way to make sure you always have what you need is to buy a set of four: a large and small flat and a large and small Phillips head. Look for a one- and two-point Phillips and a 1/4-inch and a 3/16-inch flat. You can even get a single-handle package with interchangeable heads for $15 or less. You’ll also find a surprising number of uses for one of those tiny screwdrivers used for repairing eyeglasses. They come in handy for jobs on cabinet hinges, towel bars, childproofing devices, and, well . . . eyeglasses.

5.

Cross-cut saw. Also called a hand or ripping saw. As the name suggests, this tool cuts across the grain and is the basic saw you’ll use for most projects. Choose one with eight teeth to the inch and expect to pay about $20.

6.

Hacksaw or close-quarter hacksaw. This is a C-shaped saw generally used to cut metal (as in pipes). Look for one that costs about $8.

7.

Miter saw. This saw cuts at an angle, making it ideal for cutting molding or other angled wood cuts about an inch or less. It should be roughly the same price as the hacksaw.

8.

Electric drill. If you get a cordless drill, you’re ready for anything—including making repairs when a storm has knocked the power out. Plug-in models are less expensive and generally more heavy-duty. Figure on spending about $40 for the cordless and $10 less for the traditional drill, plus another $10 for a set of starter bits.

9.

Plunger. Although these are known as plumber’s friends, using one can save you from lining your plumber’s pockets. It’s a good idea to keep a small plunger for unstopping sinks and a larger one exclusively for toilets. They cost around $6 each.

10.

Utility knife with razor blades. These are invaluable for scraping paint from windows, opening boxes, cutting wallpaper or carpeting, and a variety of other jobs. Get one with a pointed edge to use for boxes and one flat push type with a retractable blade for scraping. Expect to spend only a few dollars on each.

 OTHER SMALL BUT HANDY ITEMS TO KEEP IN YOUR TOOLKIT

1.

Measuring tape, 16-foot metal.

2.

Picture hangers and wall anchors (for hanging heavy items such as large mirrors or paintings).

3.

Glue gun. If you don’t already have one, pick up this handy device. Chances are you’ll be keeping it within easy reach for help with everything from broken crockery to craft projects. About $5 at hardware or craft stores.

4.

All-purpose glue (such as Elmer’s) and super glue. If you just want to make a quick repair and don’t want to bother heating up a glue gun, keep a tube of each handy.

5.

Pencil and eraser. For marking (and unmarking) your measurements. Erasers are also great for removing small scuff and scratch marks from painted walls.

6.

Putty-knife and hole-filling compound. The type of filling material you need will depend on what kind of walls you have (plaster, drywall, etc.).

7.

Sand sponges. These are good for smaller sanding jobs because they’re much easier to grip and use than sandpaper. As a plus, they can be washed and reused.

8.

Miscellaneous screws, washers, bolts, etc. These are sometimes called assortment boxes and come in clear plastic containers. Look around your house first to see what size you’re most likely to need. An assortment tray that’s 6×6 inches, 1/2–3/4-inch high with six to ten compartments should come with everything you need to do from hanging your kindergartner’s art to fixing a wobbly table.

9.

Two-foot level. This plastic device will tell you whether you’re hanging pictures and mirrors straight and also help you get vertical plumb lines—and it will fit in your toolbox. You only need a level longer than two feet if you expect to be working on larger projects.

10.

Pair of C-clamps. For holding items together while you nail, glue, or screw them, C-clamps can be better than an extra set of hands.

11.

Card of thumbtacks. A thumbtack is perfect for temporarily holding something to wall since it makes only a tiny hole. For installing picture hangers, drapery hardware blinds, and so forth, use thumbtacks to mark the spot and then use that as the starter hole.

12.

Duct and masking tape. Use duct tape for emergency situations until the final repair can be set in place. If a window is shattered but not broken, duct or masking tape will hold it together. Mend torn window screens, cover drafty cracks under windows, or use these tapes for any other job that needs to be done immediately, but must wait for a permanent repair. Masking tape is also useful for labeling boxes and shielding areas you’re painting around.

13.

Electrical tape. This is used for making capped wire connections watertight. Never connect wires with electrical tape alone because the wires won’t be insulated and electrocution is very possible.

14.

Assortment of wire nuts. These are plastic caps in multicolors, coded for size. Red ones are large, yellow are medium, blue are smaller. Have an assortment at hand for connecting and insulating all sizes of wire.

Should you buy the best tool you can afford or just get by with an inexpensive one? Let your size, strength, skill, and ambition level be your guide. Denise Whitacre, home repair and maintenance specialist for Home Depot, says expensive tools that provide longer-term durability are needed mainly by professionals or homeowners who plan to add rooms or do extensive renovations. She puts it this way: “Why buy King Kong when Cheetah will do?”

 Tricks of the Trade: How to Avoid Calling a Repairman

Things fall apart. They also get clogged, jammed, broken, or just mysteriously stop working—usually when you can least afford the disruption. Instead of calling a repairman (they rarely come quickly—or cheaply), try these fix-it-yourself methods for a few common household predicaments.


1.

To unclog sinks and tubs:

 

• Remove as much standing water as possible and slowly pour a large pot of boiling water down the drain to dissolve the blockage.

 

• Pump the drain three times with a plunger. Try a couple of times, if necessary.

 

• Put a bucket under the U-shaped part of the drain pipe and unscrew it with a wrench. Poke a bent wire hanger up toward the drain to dislodge the goop.

 

• Help keep drains clear by pouring a cup of bleach down every couple of weeks. Many plumbers discourage using chemical drain cleaners because they contain caustic chemicals which are dangerous, bad for the plumbing, and not particularly effective.

2.

To fix stopped-up toilets:

 

• If something such as a child’s toy or washcloth has accidentally fallen into the toilet, roll up your sleeves, pull on your rubber gloves, and fish around in there until you find it. To make longer “gloves,” use a couple of old plastic bread wrappers fastened loosely around your upper arm with rubber bands.

 

• Don’t flush. Let the water drain away as much as possible and pour in a bucket of boiling water all at once.

 

• Push a toilet plunger up and down as firmly and quickly as possible. Be sure the cup fits snugly over the bottom of the bowl. Repeat at least three times.

 

• Buy or rent a plumber’s auger (a long snake with a metal spiral at the end). Push it into the bowl and keep cranking until it meets the blockage. At that point you can either try to pull the blockage out by slowly retracting the auger, or move the auger handle around quickly to dislodge the obstruction.

3.

To fix an electricity failure: Electricity is something you don’t want to fool around with casually, but some problems are simple to diagnose and correct. If you can’t easily solve an electrical problem, call an expert—don’t try to fix it yourself.

 

• In a blackout or partial blackout. Look outside to see if nearby homes have been affected. If not, grab a flashlight and check your circuit breakers to see if an overload has tripped them. You’ll recognize this because the breakers will have moved away from the “on” position. If this has happened, first switch off all but a couple of lights and the refrigerator. Then turn on the breakers one by one. Turning breakers on all at once can blow your entire circuit box.

 

• If a lamp or room light won’t work. Unscrew the light bulb and shake it gently. If you hear a tiny rattle, the filament is broken and the bulb must be replaced. If the bulb seems okay, twist it to see if it’s screwed in properly. Bulbs sometimes work loose and just need to be tightened. Go to the circuit box and see if the circuit breaker has been tripped due to an overload. And don’t overlook the “duh” factor—if there’s a light switch on the wall, make sure it’s in the on position.

4.

To fix dripping water faucets:

 

• If you have a newer type of faucet, with hot and cold combined, you will probably need to replace the cartridge to fix a drip. Purchase a repair kit from a hardware store and follow the instructions.

 

• If you have a classic stem faucet with separate hot and cold handles, turn off the water supply, unscrew the handle, and replace the old washer with a new one from your toolbox (see chapter 4). If you don’t have a new washer, you can sometimes make do by turning the old one over.

 

• If you prefer a quick fix to a permanent repair (at 3:00 A.M., perhaps), wrap a string around the spout and let it trail into the sink. The water will soak into the string and slip quietly into the sink. To conserve water, put a pan in the sink and save the leakage for your plants or garden.

5.

To correct low flow from a faucet:

 

• This is sometimes caused by a buildup of deposits or small debris in the aerator (the little screen at the end of the spout). Unscrew the nozzle and clear out the screen.

 

• Occasionally, water flow is blocked by a worn washer at the spout. If the aerator screen is clean, inspect the washer for signs of wear.

6.

To clear a jammed garbage disposal:

 

• Before removing an item from the disposal, always make sure the wall switch is turned off. Remove the black-flapped washer from the top of the disposal and retrieve the loose item from the bottom. When the item is out, run the cold water, push the small red button at the bottom of the machine to reset the circuit breaker, then flip the wall switch on. If the machine still doesn’t work, try resetting the circuit breaker again.

 

• To remove an item that can’t be retrieved by simply reaching in from the top, insert a disposal wrench (available in any hardware store) into the hole at the bottom of the unit and rotate the wrench back and forth to free the disposal blades. If you don’t have a disposal wrench, try inserting a broom handle into the business end of the unit and gently working the teeth around until you can pull the object free. Then follow the procedure above for resetting the circuit breaker.

 

• Keep the disposal clean and sanitary by grinding ice cubes in it every couple of weeks and adding a few tablespoons of Comet (or other powdered cleanser with bleach) while the unit runs.

 How to Hire a Contractor or Roofer

Remodeling and reroofing are among the largest cash outlays you will make on your home. And if you make a mistake in hiring, you may do serious damage to your home, your finances, and your nerves. The secret to getting a job done well and on budget is to find a professional with a succession of happy clients to his name and then check him out as if he were proposing to your daughter. Here’s how:


1.

Get referrals. Ask family and friends who’ve had work done on their houses for names of professionals they were satisfied with. If another professional such as a decorator or architect recommends someone, go see that contractor’s work before you call for an appointment.

2.

Check references. This is a no-brainer, or at least it should be. But you’d be surprised at the number of people who ask for references but never check a single one. No matter how confident you feel about the person, don’t skip this step! Even clients who were generally satisfied with a contractor’s work may give you useful tips about working with that particular contractor.

3.

Check with local officials. Call the city building code inspector and your local builder’s or roofer’s licensing agency to find out what licenses a contractor is required to have. Also ask what special permits are needed to perform the job you’re planning. Find out who is responsible for providing workman’s compensation. Whether the responsibility lies with you, the contractor, or the subcontractor varies by locality. While you’re on the phone, check to see if any complaints have been lodged against the professionals you are considering.

4.

Check credentials. Now that you know precisely what’s required, ask to see the contractor’s proof of license, insurance, and bonding. If this person plans to use subcontractors, ask for their credentials as well. Ask if the contractor plans to pull the necessary permits for your job. Never allow a contractor to wink-and-nudge you into doing the job without the required permits.

5.

Listen to intuition. It’s not enough to make sure your contractor has all his papers in order. Equally important is how you feel about the person who will have virtual dominion over your household for some time to come. How are this person’s manners and attitude? Does he return your calls promptly and show up for appointments on time? If you’re less than certain about the contractor you’re considering, keep looking. It will be much less trouble to continue your search than it will to survive days, weeks, or months of frustration and torment at the hands of a problem professional.

6.

Ask for an itemized bid. It’s self-preservation, not nit-picking, to insist on a detailed bid, specifying the exact materials (down to the kind of nails) the contractor will use. The bid should also contain a step-by-step plan for performing the work and an estimate of labor costs. Labor prices will vary according to locality and among different contractors, but expect the total for labor to be about 15 percent more than the costs for materials.

7.

Get it in writing. After you’ve chosen a contractor, protect yourself with a carefully written contract. Assume nothing and never sign a blank or incomplete document. Indicate with words and pictures exactly what work is to be done. If it’s a roofing job, will the original roof be removed? How many layers? Who is liable for protecting your property if it rains while the roof is off?

8.

Name the dates. One of the most important items on your contract (especially for your peace of mind) will be the date the work is to commence and the date by which it must be complete. Use dates, not number of working days. This way, if your contractor drags his feet on getting started, you have the opportunity to choose someone else for the job.

9.

Include a payment schedule. This portion of the contract states that the contractor will be paid for materials as they are purchased and used. If you pay as you go and the contractor can’t or won’t complete the work, you’ll still have money (or materials) to finish the job. Make it clear that you want to see receipts for all materials purchased for your project. Spell out the percentage amount by which the total cost of the job might overrun the estimate (10 to 15 percent is a common amount).

10.

Watch those warranties. A contractor’s warranty usually covers his work only. A manufacturer’s warranty covers materials separately, and frequently limits liability in cases where the manufacturer’s instructions for use are not followed. Make sure you understand these warranties and discuss them with your contractor. Then write the details into your contract.

 How to Shop for a Major Appliance

Whether you’re about to purchase your first washing machine or replace an ancient refrigerator, buying a major appliance can be nerve wracking. These modern conveniences cost a large chunk of change and they’re built to last a long time, so the pressure to buy the right item can make even a seasoned homeowner feel apprehensive. Here’s how to approach the job with a bit more confidence.


1.

Focus on features. As soon as you know you’re “in the market” for an appliance, begin thinking about what features are important to you. Do a reality check by talking to friends who have similar appliances. Ask your friends if the icemaker on their refrigerator has given them trouble and whether the chilled water dispenser was worth the extra expense. Discuss the fine points of microwave cooking and talk about large- versus small-capacity dishwashers. Ask for their opinions on the best location for a dryer’s lint trap. You may not agree with their preferences, but at least you’ll have a more educated opinion about your ideal appliance.

2.

Do the numbers. Determine how much you want to spend on the appliance and then decide how you’d prefer to pay for it. If you’re going to buy on credit, you may want to make favorable financing terms a significant factor in your decision on where to buy.

3.

Shop in the ’hood. Local retailers who must compete with national chains can be great places to shop because they depend on word-of-mouth and repeat business for their survival. The salespeople are likely to have more time to devote to customers and to be knowledgeable about the products they sell. Smaller stores make themselves as attractive as possible by offering whatever they can afford; sometimes this means lower prices, more often it will be superior customer service or comfortable financing terms.

4.

Weigh price against store extras. While you’re deciding where to shop, take into account services that can affect the ultimate cost of your purchase. For example, a higher-priced refrigerator that comes with free delivery may be cheaper in the long run than another retailer’s discount fridge that comes with a hefty delivery charge. It’s also a good idea to ask about the store’s policy on installation, follow-up servicing, delayed or low-interest financing, and other extras that could lower the total amount.

5.

Stick with the standards. In most cases, you’ll be better off buying appliances with established brand names. This doesn’t mean that you should base your choice on whether or not the name rings a bell. But it does suggest you may have a better experience with an appliance from a maker known for reliability. The product may also be easier to repair when the time comes because parts—and knowledgeable repair people—are easier to find.

6.

Try for a trade-in. If you are replacing an existing appliance, you may be able to get credit for your older model. This is another area in which you may find more flexibility with a local merchant than with a national chain.

7.

Give it an audition. Whenever possible, ask to see the product in action. This will help you gauge actual performance against your expectations and will allow you to decide if it’s easy to use (ask the salesperson to let you operate the controls).

8.

Read the fine print. It won’t make the best-seller list, but the warranty on the product you’re considering is definitely a good thing to read. Take time to study it and understand what the manufacturer promises to cover and for how long.

9.

Know when to walk away. At some stores, only after you agree to buy the product do you get the real sales pitch. Salespeople are trained to make extended warranties (sometimes called service contracts) sound like a mighty good deal. And they usually are—for the store. Consider these contracts only if you know you’ll be giving the appliance a much harder or more frequent workout than the typical user.



Checklists for Life
Checklists for Life: 104 Lists to Help You Get Organized, Save Time, and Unclutter Your Life
ISBN: 0375707336
EAN: 2147483647
Year: 1998
Pages: 28

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