No doubt you've tried to make a good image look better or, at the very least, tried to make a poorly shot image look acceptable. Even if you're beyond using that time-honored method of flailing around with the controls until arbitrarily arriving at a marginally acceptable result, take some time to review the basic tools of the trade and how to use them. We're going to start by balancing brightness and contrast of the plate footage. The term "plate" stretches back to the earliest days of optical compositing and refers to the source footage, typically the background onto which foreground elements will be composited. A related term, "clean plate," refers to the background with any moving foreground elements removed, something we'll look at creating later in the book. Matching footage is absolute, right or wrong, but optimizing footage is relative. What constitutes an optimized clip? Let's look at what is typically "wrong" with source footage levels and the usual methods for correcting them. Adjusting Brightness and Contrast with LevelsLevels is your tool for optimizing black and white levels; in other words, you use Levels to adjust brightness and contrast. You'll soon see why it's much preferable to the Brightness & Contrast effect for this purpose, and later in the chapter I'll show you some further uses for Levels and its Histogram palette. Figure 5.1 shows the Levels control and the clip to which it was applied, starting with the default settings. The Levels effect consists of the histogram and five individual controls, each of which can be applied either to the full RGB image or to individual red, green, blue, or alpha channels by selecting them using the Channel menu at the top. For now, we'll focus on the relatively uncomplicated technique of adjusting brightness and contrast in overall RGB, the default Channel setting. Figure 5.1. Possibly the most used "effect" in After Effects, the Levels adjustment control consists of a histogram and five basic controls per channel; the controls are usually accessed using the triangles on the histogram, with corresponding numerical/slider controls below. The default settings are shown here.
The basic function of the histogram is to help your assessment of whether the changes you are making are liable to help or harm the image. There is no one typical or ideal histogramthey can vary as much as the images themselves (Figure 5.2). Below the histogram is a black to white gradient, showing where each part of the histogram falls on the luminance scale. Figure 5.2. The same basic subject will have a variety of histograms depending on lighting conditions. There is no such thing as a "good" histogram, although alongside their images these histograms can tell you quite a bit about how much contrast and range of color is already present, and what might need correction.Although I've just said no one histogram is ideal, there's a simple trick for optimizing brightness and contrast using Levels. Look at the top and bottom end of the histogramthe highest and lowest points where there is any data whatsoeverand bracket them with the triangle controls for Input Black and Input White. By bracket them, I mean move these controls in so each sits just outside its corresponding end of the histogram (Figure 5.3). The result stretches values closer to the top or bottom of the dynamic range, as you can see by applying a second histogram (Figure 5.4). Figure 5.3. When you bring the triangle controls corresponding to Input Black and Input White in to bracket the histogram, the change in percentages can be seen numerically below.Figure 5.4. Adding a second Levels effect just to view its histogram reveals what has happened as a result of the prior adjustment; the histogram looks similar but now extends to each end of the contrast spectrum. The stripes are quantization, showing that values have been stretched. Although not severe in this case, they are a by-product of working in 8-bit color.It is generally advisable not to move Input Black above the lowest black or Input White below the highest white value when optimizing an image. This is known as crushing the blacks (or whites), and once that detail has been crushed, it cannot be brought back subsequently. Low blacks all turn to pure black, light colors blow out to white. Unless you're working in linearized color space with overbright values (if you're unsure, that means you're not, but you can check Chapter 11, "Issues Specific to Film and HDR Images," for the lowdown), you don't get the organic roll-off common to overlit film images. Many a stylized look calls for this effect, but generally speaking and until you really know what you're doing, this is bad form (Figure 5.5). Figure 5.5. The same Levels adjustment, crushing the blacks and blowing out the highlights, can bring a rich dramatic quality to one clip, while totally ruining another. Note in the histogram how much more of the image is affected by this adjustment in the lower example, including most of the lower range and all of the highlight variation.Therefore, because your source footage is dynamic and the dynamic range can vary from frame to frame, it is a good idea to leave headroom for the whites and foot room for the blacks. Generally speaking, you can use the inside corners of the adjustment triangles to line up with the edge of the image data (as in Figure 5.3). This is a reliable way to adjust the Input Black. The Input White level will need more headroom if something exceptionally brightsuch as a sun glint, flare, or firecomes into frame.
Black and white are not at all equivalent, in terms of how your eye sees them. Blown-out whites are not pretty and are usually a sign of overexposed digital footage, but your eye is much more sensitive to subtle gradations of low black levels. These low, rich blacks account for much of what makes film look filmic, and they can contain a surprising amount of detail, none of which, unfortunately, would be apparent on the printed page. So what about the Output Black and Output White controls? These have the effect of raising the blackest black and lowering the whitest white, respectively, toward gray, which lowers the dynamic range and the contrast of the image (Figure 5.6). Figure 5.6. Output Black and Output White can help with a particular look (here the scenery appears misty and hazy), but they will come into play more in the Matching section.Reading the HistogramYou now know the basics of what to look for on a histogram when optimizing an image's brightness and contrast. Now take a look at some potentially unhealthy symptoms that a histogram can help you recognize. The Levels histogram shows only incoming image data, not the results of any Levels adjustments. Unlike Photoshop CS, After Effects does not have a Histogram palette for constantly monitoring current image levels, but you do have the option to see the results of one Levels adjustment by applying a second Levels effect. This is not a typical thing to do, mostly because people don't like the extra effect sitting in the pipeline, but it can certainly be useful as a temporary check if you think something might be amiss. Applied to a backlit shot adjusted to bring out foreground highlights, the resulting histogram reveals a couple of new wrinkles (Figure 5.7). At the top end of the histogram the levels increase right up to the top white, ending in a spike. This may indicate that the white data has been crushed slightly, forcing too many whites to pure white and destroying image detail. Figure 5.7. In the first instance of Levels, Gamma has been raised and the Input White brought in to enhance detail in the dark areas of the foreground. The second instance has no adjustments and is applied only to see the result of the first adjustment in a second histogram.At the other end of the scale is the result of the Gamma adjustment: a series of spikes rising out of the lower values like protruding hash marks. The Gamma value has been raised, moving the midpoint closer to black to raise midrange brightness. That means that you effectively stretched the levels below the midpoint, causing them to posterize slightly, to clump up at regular intervals.
In this case, the spikes are not a worry because they occur among a healthy amount of surrounding datathere are no empty gaps between the spikes, there is a curve of data across the range. In more extreme cases of posterization in which there is no data in between the spikes whatsoever, you will see the result of too much level adjusting in the form of banding. (Figure 5.8) Figure 5.8. Attempting to bring out the foreground highlights with too much Input White adjustment instead of Gamma blows out the sky and heavily quantizes the resulting image. The histogram of a second Levels effect shows quantization and clipped levels, and banding is apparent in the sky. Adjusting Gamma is a better approach.Banding is the result of limits associated with working in 8-bit color, and After Effects offers a ready-made solution: 16-bit color mode, which you can access by Alt-clicking (Option-clicking) on the bit-depth identifier along the bottom of the Project window (Figure 5.9). For more on what 16-bit color is and how it can be used with other technologies, such as floating-point linearized color, see Chapter 11. Figure 5.9. An entire project can be toggled from the default 8-bit color mode to 16-bit mode by Alt-clicking (Option-clicking) on this toggle in the Project window.Why Not Use Brightness & Contrast?I just had you try an adjustment of brightness and contrast on an image and entirely ignored the effect called Brightness & Contrast. Are we just too good for that effect? In a word, yes. The reason why is easily seen with the image you just optimized. Brightness & Contrast has two sliders, and I'll give you three guesses what each of them controls. The Contrast control, if set to a value higher than 0.0, causes the values above middle gray to move closer to white and those below the midpoint to move closer to black. Set it to a value below 0.0, and it takes all pixels closer to gray. The Brightness control, unlike Gamma, adjusts all pixel values in the image at once, and identically. So what's the problem? The example image was typical in that it did not need black and white levels enhanced to the same extent. In fact, it did not need input black levels enhanced at all, as you could see from the histogram. Cranking up the Contrast control to get more detail into the whites would, in this case, crush the blacksforcing more of them to pure black. And then if you attempted to bring them back by raising the Brightness value, you would quickly have blown out the detail in the sky completely (Figure 5.10). Maddening. Figure 5.10. Oh, what a tangled web we weave when first we apply Brightness & Contrast. Something's gotta give: Increasing Contrast crushes the blacks, and raising Brightness blows out the sky, as you see here. There is no good reason to use this tool.The other big problem with Brightness & Contrast is the linearity of itthe fact that all pixels are affected equally by the controls. The ability to create a nice roll-off in complex Brightness & Contrast settings is where Curves stands out.
Gamma Adjustments: Levels and CurvesGamma, the midrange of the image levels, is a more subjective adjustment: Generally you can think of it as giving more reach to adjustments you may have already made to brightness and contrast, making the image more brilliant or darker without changing the white and black points. You can adjust gamma in Levels, but, in most cases, the histogram won't really help you decide where a gamma adjustment is needed as much as the image itself. By moving the midpoint in Levels to the left, you are raising gamma, effectively putting more values in the image above the midpoint; moving it to the right has the opposite effect (Figure 5.11). Figure 5.11. It may seem obvious, yet this figure demonstrates it clearly: Raising gamma (top) pushes more image values above the midpoint, while lowering it has the opposite effect. The result in each case bears a proportional relationship (in the histogram) to the original.How do you know when to stop? In my first professional color correction job, my supervisor told me that he had to see it go too far before he knew how much to dial it back. And that's always remained my basic approach with the sliders. The Subtlety of CurvesI consider Curves preferable to Levels for correcting gamma, because
It's also worth understanding Curves controls because they are a common shorthand for color adjustments in visual effects work; this control recurs not only in all of the other effects compositing packages but also in more sophisticated tools within After Effects, such as Color Finesse (discussed briefly later in this chapter). Curves does, however, have a couple of drawbacks, compared with Levels:
Nonetheless, the benefits far outweigh the disadvantages, if you're patient enough to gain the necessary skills to use Curves, so I'm going to try to rocket you to comfort with this powerful effect in this section. By default, Curves displays a grid with a line extending diagonally from lower left to upper right. There is a Channel selector at the top, set by default to RGB as in Levels, and there are some controls on the right to help with drawing, saving, and recalling certain types of curves. Figure 5.12 shows some basic Curves adjustments and their effect on images, as well as on a linear gradient, and the equivalent Levels settings. This is the best way I could conceive to show what is happening with Curves, and it's the kind of thing you can try easily on your own, using the Ramp effect to create a gradient if you want a neutral palette on which to see the result of the changes. Î would even go so far as to say that performing these kind of scientific explorations into how these tools work is one of the things that will separate you from the mass of artists who work more haphazardly. Figure 5.12. This array of Curves adjustments applied to a gradient shows the results of some typical settings. From top-left to bottom-right: The default gradient and Curves setting, an increase in gamma, a decrease in gamma, an increase in brightness and contrast, raised gamma in the highlights only, and raised gamma with clamped black values.More interesting than these basic adjustments (which are included only to give you a clear idea of what Curves is doing) are the types of adjustments that only Curves allows you to door at least do easily. I came to realize that most of the adjustments I make with Curves fall into a few distinct types that I use over and over, and so those are summarized here. The most basic adjustment is to simply raise or lower the gamma with Curves, by adding a point at the middle of the RGB curve and then moving it upwards or downwards. Figure 5.13 shows the result of each adjustment. Interestingly, this produces a vastly different result from raising or lowering the Gamma control in Levels, and the exact effect of the adjustment is impossible to recreate without Curves' ability to gently roll off the adjustment (Figure 5.14). Figure 5.13. Two equally valid gamma adjustments using the Curves control. Dramatically lit footage particularly benefits from the roll-off possible in the highlights and shadows.Figure 5.14. Both the gradient and the histogram show that you can push the gamma much harder, still preserving the full range of contrast, with Curves than with Levels, where you face a choice between losing highlights and shadows or crushing them.Take this idea further, and you can weight the adjustment to the high or low values of the image, pushing a nice roll-off into an image that might have appeared rather low in contrast (Figure 5.15). Combine high and low adjustments and you have the classic S-curve adjustment, which is universally understood to enhance brightness and contrast, but which additionally has the benefit of introducing roll-offs into the highlights and shadows (Figure 5.16). Keep in mind that you want to aim the curve to travel directly through the midpoint of your Curves grid if you don't wish to affect gamma. Figure 5.15. This adjustment adds a boost to the highlight gamma onlyFigure 5.16. The classic S-curve adjustment: The midpoint remains the same, but contrast is boosted.Some images need a gamma adjustment only to one end of the rangefor example, a boost to the darker pixels, below the midpoint, that doesn't alter the black point and doesn't brighten the white values. Here you are required to add three points (Figure 5.17):
Figure 5.17. A solution for backlighting: Adding a mini-boost to the darker levels while leaving the lighter levels flat preserves the detail in the sky and brings out detail in the foreground that was previously missing.I find I'm usually able to complete a Curves setting by adding between one and three points to my color curve. More than three points seems to do something not very organicfor want of a better expressionto the image. My method is usually to add a single point and then to add a second or third as needed. Just for Color: Hue/SaturationThird in the troika of primary image adjustment tools is Hue/Saturation. This one has many individualized uses:
All of these uses will come into play when you learn about creating monochrome elements, such as smoke, from scratch in Chapters 12 to 14. The Hue/Saturation control allows you to do something you can't do with Levels or Curves, which is to directly control the hue, saturation, and brightness of an image. The HSB color model is merely a different way of looking at the same color data as exists in the RGB model used by Levels and Curves. All good color pickers, including the Apple and Adobe pickers, handle RGB and HSB as two different modes that use three values to describe any given color, which is the correct way to conceptualize it. In other words, you could arrive at the same color adjustments using Levels and Curves, but Hue/Saturation gives you direct access to a couple of key color attributes that are otherwise difficult to get at. For example, you can adjust the overall saturation of the image, or even the saturation of individual color channels. Desaturating an image means moving the red, green, and blue values closer together, reducing the relative intensity of the strongest of them. Why attempt this using three separate channels of red, green, and blue when a single slider will do it? Desaturating an image slightlylowering the Saturation value somewhere between 5 and 20can be an effective way to make an image adjustment come together quickly (Figure 5.18). This is a case where understanding your delivery medium is essential, as film is more tolerant and friendly to saturated images than television. Figure 5.18. For footage that is already saturated with color, even a subtle boost to the gamma can cause saturation to go over the top. There's no easy way to control this with RGB controls, such as Levels and Curves, but moving over to the HSB model allows you to single out Saturation and dial it back.The other quick fix that Hue/Saturation affords you is a shift to the hue of the overall image or of one or more of its individual channels. The Channel Control menu for Hue/Saturation includes not only the red, green, and blue channels but also their chromatic opposites of cyan, magenta, and yellow. When you're working in RGB color, these secondary colors are in direct opposition, so that, for example, lowering blue gamma effectively raises the yellow gamma, and vice versa. But in the HSB model all six are singled out individually, which means that if a given channel is too bright or over-saturated, you can dial back its Brightness and Saturation levels, or you can shift its Hue toward the part of the spectrum where you want it (Figures 6.19 and 6.20). Figure 5.19. Sometimes one color channel comes in much too strong, and you can get away with isolating that channel in this case, magentaand knocking its Saturation back heavily. Go too far, however, and you may not notice artifacts such as areas that have lost too much saturation (see closeup).Figure 5.20. When in doubt about the amount of color in a given channel, try boosting its Saturation to 100%, blowing it outthis makes the presence of that tone in pixels very easy to spot.
Alternative Color Tools and TechniquesI've largely limited the discussion here to The Big Three color toolsLevels, Curves, and Hue/Saturationfor a couple of reasons. For one thing, they are the common currency of color correction, not only in After Effects but also Photoshop. The other main reason is that any other technique you might use would not obviate the need to somehow involve these tools and techniques. The truth is that there are lots of ways to adjust the color levels of an image. Some alternatives for achieving a specific looklayering in a color solid, matting an image with itself, and moreare discussed in Section III of this book, and the next chapter will get into methods for making very specific color matches. Even using what was covered in this chapter, there are more alternatives. For example, you can apply these basic color correctors using an adjustment layer rather than directly to your footage. This gives you the added advantage of being able to dial back the correction by varying the opacity of the adjustment layer. |